Printing the Stackable resistor box with labels - Follow up

The other day, I posted about Printing the Stackable resistor box with labels. Today, I reprinted the same model using the suggested changes for the other day. I added three complete boxes to the slicer program, increased the size of the outer box by 102%, and changed the top/bottom fill pattern.

The results were not what I was hoping for. The drawer does not fit with the outer box. The drawer still has issues with the base being too thin. It appears that is was a mistake to rotate the drawer to be flat.

Printing the Stackable resistor box with labels

This week, I am trying to get a bit more organized. My current project is to better organize all electronic components that I have.

I got started by picking up a couple of HDX 15-Compartment Interlocking Small Parts Organizer in Black (2-Pack). This got most of the small components grouped together. This left with an issue. There is a fair number of resistors of different values in one compartment. This leaves me hunting and pecking through a mess to find the resistor I need.

After poking around Thingiverse, I came across a possible solution. The Stackable resistor box with labels. There two parts the case and the drawer. The case has an interlocking mechanism. Giving me a number of possibilities for connecting the boxes together and flexibility to print the number of boxes I need.

Preparing and Slicing

• Import the two parts into the Slic3r
• Changed the orientation of the models so supports are not needed
• Sliced the models
• Sent the models to the OctoPrint server.

Updates to the 3D Printer settings

• Changed the z height. Hopefully, this will help the print release a little easier.

Results

The overall print quality is good. The case has a little stringing on the inside. There are a few minor defects with the outer surface. The drawer also printed well. It also has a few minor surface defects. 

The change in z height didn't help with the removing the models from the bed. I ended up destroying the drawer when I removed it from the bed. 

When I tried to fit the drawer in the case, they would not fit together properly. 

Changes

Increase the size of the case.

Print two or three cases at once. This should allow a layer to cool and set before the next layer starts.

Change the top/bottom fill pattern to something other than Hilbert Curve.

Upgrading the Build Surface

For the last couple of years, I have been using blue painter's tape on a heated bed. Recently, I bought a new Anycubic Adhesive 3D Printing Build Surface High Temperature Resistant Sticker.

Installation of the new build surface was quick and easy.

To test the new build surface, I grabbed a Letter Opener model from Thingiverse. This model comes to a sharp point. I have had problems with the model lifting when it contains a sharp point.

The first layer went down smoothly and evenly. I didn't notice any wrapping or lifting while the printer was running.

Right after the printer finished and the bed was still hot, I tried to remove the skirt. I was able to get the skirt to start pulling away from the bed but it was difficult.

I then waited about 10 minutes for the bed to cool completely. It took a lot of effort to get the model off the bed.

Installation Steps

• Removed the old blue painter's tape
• Quickly cleaned the heated bed with Rubbing Alcohol
• Removed the sticker's backing
• Placed the sticker on the bed
• Rubbed the surface of the sticker to make sure there were no bubbles
• Heated the hot end and bed
• Reset the Z height 
• Checked the bed level

Slicer settings

• Bed Temperature for the first layer: 60 C
• Bed Temperature for the other layers: 50 C
• First layer height: 0.29 mm
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Skirt: 4 mm for object, height 1 layer