Fighting with the first layer

Recently, three events happened in a row that is leaving me with the problem of getting the first layer of my 3D prints to stick. The PLA filament that I was using ran out. An update to OctoPrint went sour, resulting in a rebuild. Lastly, I updated the version Cura I am using. 

I have tried several ways to get the print to stick. First was flipping the glass bed over. I have gone through the bed leveling process (both manual and automatic) several times. According to Bed Visualizer, I am close. In Cura, I have tweaked the 'Initial Layer Height' to 0.1 and the 'Build Plate Temperature' to 65C. The results I have gotten so far are either the filament doesn't stick or after a few layers, the edges start to curl and pull away from the bed. 

My next set of changes involved using a glue stick and switching from a skirt to a brim. I was able to get a 'CHEP Calibration Cube' to print. The print popped right of the bed. Closer inspection of the print revealed that the first layer is under extruded and the edges of the print pulled away from the bed. The top of the print (last layer) looks like the nozzle dig in a little (over extrusion).

I compared the latest print to prints from the previous roll of filament. The first layer on the previous filament is much thicker.

Possible Options

• Make sure the bed is level
• Good prints start with a level bed. 
• Did this 4 times earlier in the day
• Reduce the print speed for the first layer
• It idea behind the slower print speed is to give the filament time to flow out of the nozzle into place and harden.
• the current setting is 25 mm/s. This seems reasonable speed. I will skip with option
• Increase the height of the first layer 
• From what I have read, increasing the initial layer height can reduce the backpressure on the filament which should let the filament flow out a little easier.
• Increase the extrusion amount for the first layer
• This should force a bit more filament out. There is a possibility of the print suffering from an elephant's foot. It could also increase the backpressure on the filament.
• Increase the extruder temperature
• A little more heat could allow the filament to flow a little easier. 
• Check the filament diameter setting
• The filament size is 1.75 in the settings. 
• Checked the nozzle diameter at the same time. 

Setting up for the next test print

Reprinting the CHEP Calibration Cube. Changed the initial layer height from 0.1 to 0.12. Changed printing temperature from 195C to 200C. Used the glue stick on the bed. 

Results

The print stuck to the bed a lot better. The first layer doesn't have as many defects and imperfections. I can clearly see a space between each line the makes up the first layer. This looks under extruded.

It seems this filament like the 200C. 

Setting up for the next test print

Reprinting the CHEP Calibration Cube. Changed the initial layer height from 0.12 to 0.18. Used the glue stick again. 

Results

There is even less under extrusion with the first layer. 

Setting up for the next test print

This time, I going to print the CHEP Calibration Cube, one of the tolerance tests from Makers Muse, and a few models of my own design (drop ceiling clip). Changed the initial layer height from 0.18 to 0.20. Changed from brim to skirt. Used the glue stick on the bed.

Results

I canceled the print just as the 3rd layer was starting. One of the models was not sticking to the bed. The first layer is under extruded. 

Setting up for the next test print

Just printing the CHEP Calibration Cube. Changed the initial layer flow from 100% to 102%. Wiped the bed down with Isopropyl Alcohol. Used the glue stick.

Results

The print was really stuck down. I have to use a putty knife to get the print free. The individual lines that make up the first layer are a little fatter and there is still a bit of space between the lines. 

Wrap up

This turned out to be a good learning experience. The lesson of a 'level bed is the starting point' was re-enforced. I learned that the distance between the 'bed and the nozzle', 'how fast the material flows out of the nozzle', and 'type of bed surface' all impact each other.  

Upgrade to Cura 4.7.1 and Upgrade of OctoPrint to Python3

Cura

Today, I made the jump from Cura 4.62 to Cura 4.7.1. In reviewing the release notes, for Cura 4.7.0 there were a lot of updates. I should have updated to Cura 4.7.0 earlier. 

There are some items in Cura 4.7.0 that I am looking forward to playing with or will make using the tool a little easier. 

• Rotation widgets
• Moved tree-support from experimental to normal settings
• Adjust initial layer horizontal expansion
• Allow a g-code to be inserted before or after pausing

Cura 4.7.1 contains a small list of bug fixes. 

 

OctoPrint

When I fired up OctoPrint today, I was greeted with the notice 'Upgrade your OctoPrint install to Python3!' After reading the blog post, I couldn't see a reason not to update. I open a SSH session to my Rasberry PI running OctoPrint and ran the commands from the article. It took a bit of time for everything to download and install.

There are some messages from the updated that will need to be researched or addressed at a later day. 

• Plugin Bed Level Visualizer successfully installed
• Warning: You have installed Bed Level visualiser. There is a known issue with it failing silently on Python 3
• See more here: https://github.com/jneilliii/OctoPrint-BedLevelVisualizer/issues/213
• These plugins were not found on the repo
• Please install them manually, from OctoPrint's plugin manager
• - HeaterTimeout
• Cleaning up...
• Finished! OctoPrint should be ready to go
• Once you have verified the install works, you can safely remove the folder /home/pi/oprint.bak
• If you want to go back (If it doesn't work) to Python 2 download the file at: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/cp2004/Octoprint-Upgrade-To-Py3/master/go_back.py

After rebooting the Raspberry Pi, I am now getting a message that 'The OctoPrint server is currently not running'. When I SSH to the Raspberry Pi, the message 'OctoPrint version : unknown' and 'OctoPi version : 0.17.0' is now displaying.

After a bit of thought, I am just going to rebuild the OctoPrint installation.

Comparing Cura profiles

Today, I want to test the differences between the Cura 'Standard Quality' profile and Chuck Hellebuyck's profile 'Cura for Creality Printers'.

Plan

• Load the build plate with a few simple models.
• Slice with the default 'Standard Quality' profile.
• Print the models
• Slice with CHEPV4.6.x_0.20(Good) profile
• Print the model
• Compare results

Actual

• Room
• 22C
• Humidity 52

Run 1 - Standard Quality

• Preheat the hot end to 190C
• Preheat the bed to 70C
• Note: Took about minutes to get the hot end and bed to temperature.
• Slice the models
• Estimates 
• time 1 hours 17 minutes
• material PLA 10g - 3.34 m
• hot end to 200C
• bed to 60C
• Notes: Cura gave warning about the model not being manifold. 
• OctoPrint 
• estimates a time of 50 minutes
• Octolapse running
• End of run 1 notes
• Lots of blobs, zits, and stringing when the hot end moves away for a picture.
• Little stringing between objects
• Print Time
• OctoPrint 1:25:21
• Cura with OcotoPrint connection 1:25:21
• Slack notifications 1:25
• Raspberry Pi temperature ranged from 38C to 40C
• No noticeable lifting of the model from the bed
• skirt pulled away from the bed easily, Measured skirt thickness at several places. Values ranged from .19mm to .23mm.
• Models popped off the bed with just finger strength. 
• EasyCalib3.stl
• slight rounding of the corners of the base.
• little z banding
• 
  
  
  
  
  
• TESTBLOKJE.STL
• blobs from where the hot end moved away from the model. Most noticeable blobs were pointing in the direction the hot end moves away for Octolapse to take a picture. 
• 
  
  
  
  
  
• OpenRC_Calibration_Cube.stl
• The M3 nuts I have did not fit the holes. The holes are just too small. 
• Some blobs from Octolaspe
• 
  
  
  
  
  
• CHEPCalibrationCube.stl
• Some blobs from Octolaspe 
• X face - 20.01 to 20.42
• Y face - 20.10 to 20.34
• Z face - 19.95 to 20.24
• 
  
  
  
  
  

Run 2 - CHEPV4.6x_0.20(Good)

• Preheat the hot end to 190C
• Preheat the bed to 70C
• Slice the model 
• Estimates
• time 1 hour 39 minutes
• material PLS 13g - 4.29m
• OctoPrint
• estimates 1 hour
• Octolapse running
• End of run 2 notes
• Lots of blobs, zits, and stringing when the hot end moves away for a picture. The amount of artifacts seems lower. 
• Almost no stringing between objects. 
• Print Time
• OctoPrint 1:42:52
• Cura with OcotoPrint connection 1:42:52
• Slack notifications 1:42
• Raspberry Pi temperature ranged from 39C to 42C
• No noticeable lifting of the model from the bed
• skirt pulled away from the bed easily, Measured skirt thickness at several places. Values ranged from .17mm to .22mm.
• Models popped off the bed with just finger strength. 
• EasyCalib3.stl
• No Z banding
• 
  
  
  
  
  
• TESTBLOKJE.STL
• very similar to run 1.
• more blobs on the pyramid
• 
  
  
  
  
  
• OpenRC_Calibration_Cube.stl
• I was able to fit a nut into a few but not all of the holes and slots.
• 
  
  
  
  
  
• CHEPCalibrationCube.stl
• x face - 20.0 to 20.35
• y face - 20.01 to 20.25
• z face - 19.95 to 20.20
• 
  
  
  
  
  

Resources

Cura Profiles from Filament Friday

Easy Material Settings Calibration Piece (EasyCalib3.stl)   

• walls are exact 1.0mm to see eventual over- or underflow
• a little 45° overhang with a 1.0mm platform that shows warping and if you probably need to change the filament-fan speed
• stringing in the tube or between tube and platform
• a 0.2mm space between the cube and the cylinder to check with a paper if needed

Testing Block for setting belt tension (TESTBLOKJE.stl)

OpenRC Calibration Cube (OpenRC_Calibration_Cube.stl)

• M3 nuts should fit    

CHEP Calibration Cube (CHEPCalibrationCube.stl)

• 20mm by 20mm by 20mm

Updating the starting and ending G-code

Today, I am making some minor tweaks to the start and end G-code within Cura. There are three changes I would like to make. The first is to have the bed and the hot-end heat up at the same time. Second, I am wondering if calling M420 right after a G29 is helpful. If it is not helpful then come up with helpful solution. The third change is to have the hot-end to have a different ending position.

Final G-code

Start G-code

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

; Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting 
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; heat to Cura Hotend

G28 ;Home
G29 ;
M500 ; Save settings

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up 

End G-code

G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning

G1 X{machine_width} Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

Research 

Change 1

Chuck Hellebuyck has a video on how to get Cura to heat up the bed and hot end at the same time. Faster Hot End & Heated Bed warm-up in Cura

Change 2

G29 - Bed Leveling (Automatic): Probes the bed and enables bed leveling compensation.

M420 - Bed Leveling State: Get and/or set bed leveling state.

'Storing Bed Leveling Mesh & Updating your Slicer' from TH3D Studio

'Unified Bed Leveling (UBL) - Marlin Firmware' from 3DMaker Engineering

'Automatic Bed Leveling' from Marlin

M500 - Save Setting: saves all configurable settings to EEPROM

Having a start g-code that uses a G29 followed by M420, is not necessary. The G29 turns on bed leveling, probes the bed, and stores the values to RAM. The M420 turns on bed leveling and reads the values from the EEPROM. 

Options to make bed leveling more helpful

1. Modify the start g-code to run G29 without M420
2. Modify the start g-code to run G29 and M500 without M420
3. Modify the start g-code to run G29, M500, and M420
4. Modify the start g-code to run M420 and occasionally run a bed leveling that saves the data

In thinking through the options, I have settled on option 2. The build surface on my Ender 5 Plus is removable. Having the auto-leveling routine run before each print should help get a good first layer as the build surface develops imperfections over time. By saving the bed leveling data, I should get two benefits. The first benefit is the data will be present after the power is cycled on the printer. The second benefit is the plug-in 'Bed Visualizer' will have current data. 

Change 3

The ending G-code uses the variable {machine_depth} to set the 'Y' axis. This puts the hot end in the back left corner. The problem is when the printer starts up the BL Touch sensor reports an error. My solution is to change from using the variable {machine_depth} to a value of '0'. 

Update: The X0 Y0 position put the hot end in the front left corner. I am trying X{machine_width} y{machine_depth}, hopefully this puts the hot end in the back right corner. 

Before Changes

Before I get started on making any changes, I recorded the start and end G-code that my version of Cura (4.6.1) is using.

Start G-code

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration 
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate 
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration 
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk 
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate 
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate 

G28 ;Home 
G29 ; 
M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height 

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder 
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up 
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position 
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line 
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little 
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line 
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up 

End G-code

G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning

G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z 

Getting the first layer right

Over the past few days, I have made several attempts to level the bed of my Ender 5 Plus. I have read the manual that came with the printer, read several forums, and watched several YouTube videos. 

What I have learned

• The first layer is very important to get right. This is the foundation that the rest of the print is built on. 
• If a print has trouble sticking to the bed. Check the bed level is a good first step.
• The OctoPrint plugin Bed Visualizer can help understand where there are high spots and low spots on the build plate.
• There is the "right" amount of squish. See 'Bed Leveling Guide' image. 

I am using the model 'Bed Leveling Calibration Test Object (Parametric)' by pgreendland. The first couple of attempts turned out poorly. This caused me to relevel the bed. In looking closer at the results, I could clearly see each line the printer laid down. This got me to thinking that maybe under extrusion was the problem. I did switch some part on the extruder motor. I wanted metal parts instead of plastic. 

I performed the standard extrusion test. The hot end was heated to 200 C, I marked the filament at the 100 and 110 mm points, and extruded 100 mm. Only 94 mm of the filament was pulled in. 

To update the extruder steps, I made a back of the configuration using the OctoPrint plugin 'EEPROM Marlin Plugin'.  For my printer, the Extruder steps were 94. Using the formula (expected amount of filament * Current E-Steps) / Actual extrusion amount, I was able to calculate a new step value. 

(100 X 93) / 94 = 98.9

I set and saved the new value to the EEPROM then reran the extrusion test. This time the test hit the mark. 

Reprinting of the 'Bed Leveling Calibration Test Object' turned out better. The print stuck to the bed. The print was not as solid as I expected. I also think that the hot end may be a little high. 

For the next test, I am going with a more complex model. I am not changing any settings. I want to see if the current settings can produce a nice print. I am going with the 'CHEP Calibration Cube' for the model. 

Setting up Octoprint

When I was running my old 3D printer, I found using OctoPrint to be helpful. I think it would be good to set up a new instance of OctoPrint.

Steps

• From the OctoPrint web site, I download OctoPi 0.17.0. 
• Using Etcher, burned the image to a 16GB SD card. 
• Updated the file octopi-wpa-supplicant.txt with my network credentials. 
• ssh to the pi
• ran raspi-config
• changed the user password
• change timezone
• rebooted the pi
• Using a browser, I navigated to the IP of the OctoPi and followed the prompts to set up the first user

At this point, I paused to explore the interface. While I was exploring, OctoPrint went ahead with checking for updates. Updates were discovered and I went ahead with installing them.

Plugins

• Bed Visualizer
• Displays 3D mesh of bed topography report
• Settings
• General
• GCODE Commands for Mesh Update Process
• G28
• G29 T
• EEPROM Marlin Editor
• Floating Navbar
• Heater Timeout
• Settings
• Enable
• Navbar Temperature
• Display temperatures on navbar
• Octolaspe
• Creates a stabilized timelapse
• Octoslack
• monitoring your printer and prints via Slack, Mattermost, Pushbullet, Pushover, Rocket.Chat, Discord, Riot/Matrix, or Microsoft Teams
• Simple Emergency Stop
• Themeify
• Themes for octorpint
• Settings
• Enable theme
• enable customization
• Custom Style

• Selector	CSS-Rule	Color Picker	Value
  .span8	width		70%
  .container	width		100%
  .span4	width		25%
  .row	margin-left		0

  custom style info comes from a YouTube video channel 'Teaching Tech' entitled 'The best Ocotprint Plugins to enhance your 3D printing experience'

Restarting my 3D Printing hobby

Recently, I decided that I missed playing with, working with, and modifying my 3D printer. After a bit of research, I settled on purchasing the Ender 5 Plus.

While I was waiting for the printer to arrive I spent time watching YouTube videos on how to assembly the printer. I picked up several helpful tips and tricks. The Assembly of the printer was quick and easy. 

My first challenge came in leveling the bed. The blame for the challenge is all my fault. I didn't read the documentation carefully. I am made a bad assumption about how the software worked and what steps I needed to perform. Once I did read the documentation and watched a couple of videos, it took about 20 minutes to level the bed. I went through the AUX leveling steps twice just to make sure the bed as fairly level. For leveling, I had the build plate heated to 70 C and the hot-end to 190 C. The Auto-leveling sequence was run.

For the slicing program, I am using Cura 4.6.1. For my first print, the calibration cube was used. I took the defaults that Cura has for the Ender 5 Plus and send the gcode to the SD card. 

Here is where my second challenge appeared. When I put the card into the SD slot the printer didn't find the file. Turns out that the gcode needs to placed at the root level on the SD card and the file name can't be longer than 15 characters. 

Once the file was renamed, the printer recognized the existence of the file. I was then able to get the print started. When the hot-end starting moving from the home position to the starting point of the priming line the extruder sent filament to the hot-end. The priming line printed without issue. The skirt and cube printed without issue. 

I noticed during the print that the heated build got turned off or set to 0. I didn't manually adjust the bed's temperature settings. I also noted a strange noise when the infill was being printed. 

Took several measurements on the X, Y, and Z faces. I got a reading of +/- of .05 mm for most of the cube. The exception was the first two layers which were - .2 mm in the X and Y direction. 

This seems like a reasonable first print. 

ToDo

• Examine the gcode for purge/prime sequence, to determine if I can get rid of the line the prints from the home position to the start of the purge/prime line.
• Examine the gcode for changes to the bed temperature to determine if the gcode is turning off the bed or if the firmware is turning off the bed. 

Re-calibrating my 3D Printer

I have owned a delta style 3D printer for a few years now. In the beginning, I spent a lot of time reading, changing settings, and printing various test models. This was a lot of work and fun building up a knowledge base. Lately, I have started creating my own models that fit together such as a box with a lid. This has led me to want prints that are more dimensionally accurate.

There are a number of challenges to getting dimensionally accurate prints. Starting with the space around the printer. Air Temperature, air movement, humidity have an impact how fast the freshly extruded material cools. The printer is next. The quality of motors, quality of the sensors, quality of the parts, and physical connections have an impact on how the print head moves. Then there is the filament. The type of filament dictates how much shrinkage occurs while the print cools and quality of filament have an impact on how smoothly the filament extrudes.

I performed a number steps to calibrate the printer.

• Checked all the physical connections to make sure they are firmly in place. Mostly this was tightening screws and nuts. 
• Checked the drive belts. 
• No broken teeth
• Each belt should have the same tension.
• Calibration Check and Adjustment
• Advanced Delta Printer Calibration
• Delta dimensional calibration tool
• Adjusted Delta Radius for each tower
• Bed Level Check and Adjust

Resources
Dimensional accuracy of 3D printed parts from 3D Hubs
A Guide to Understanding the Tolerances of Your 3D Printer from MatterHackers
Advanced Delta Printer Calibration
Delta dimensional calibration tool

How-to: Dimensional Accuracy Calibration for Delta Printers

Printing the Stackable resistor box with labels

This week, I am trying to get a bit more organized. My current project is to better organize all electronic components that I have.

I got started by picking up a couple of HDX 15-Compartment Interlocking Small Parts Organizer in Black (2-Pack). This got most of the small components grouped together. This left with an issue. There is a fair number of resistors of different values in one compartment. This leaves me hunting and pecking through a mess to find the resistor I need.

After poking around Thingiverse, I came across a possible solution. The Stackable resistor box with labels. There two parts the case and the drawer. The case has an interlocking mechanism. Giving me a number of possibilities for connecting the boxes together and flexibility to print the number of boxes I need.

Preparing and Slicing

• Import the two parts into the Slic3r
• Changed the orientation of the models so supports are not needed
• Sliced the models
• Sent the models to the OctoPrint server.

Updates to the 3D Printer settings

• Changed the z height. Hopefully, this will help the print release a little easier.

Results

The overall print quality is good. The case has a little stringing on the inside. There are a few minor defects with the outer surface. The drawer also printed well. It also has a few minor surface defects. 

The change in z height didn't help with the removing the models from the bed. I ended up destroying the drawer when I removed it from the bed. 

When I tried to fit the drawer in the case, they would not fit together properly. 

Changes

Increase the size of the case.

Print two or three cases at once. This should allow a layer to cool and set before the next layer starts.

Change the top/bottom fill pattern to something other than Hilbert Curve.

Upgrading the Build Surface

For the last couple of years, I have been using blue painter's tape on a heated bed. Recently, I bought a new Anycubic Adhesive 3D Printing Build Surface High Temperature Resistant Sticker.

Installation of the new build surface was quick and easy.

To test the new build surface, I grabbed a Letter Opener model from Thingiverse. This model comes to a sharp point. I have had problems with the model lifting when it contains a sharp point.

The first layer went down smoothly and evenly. I didn't notice any wrapping or lifting while the printer was running.

Right after the printer finished and the bed was still hot, I tried to remove the skirt. I was able to get the skirt to start pulling away from the bed but it was difficult.

I then waited about 10 minutes for the bed to cool completely. It took a lot of effort to get the model off the bed.

Installation Steps

• Removed the old blue painter's tape
• Quickly cleaned the heated bed with Rubbing Alcohol
• Removed the sticker's backing
• Placed the sticker on the bed
• Rubbed the surface of the sticker to make sure there were no bubbles
• Heated the hot end and bed
• Reset the Z height 
• Checked the bed level

Slicer settings

• Bed Temperature for the first layer: 60 C
• Bed Temperature for the other layers: 50 C
• First layer height: 0.29 mm
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Skirt: 4 mm for object, height 1 layer

Resources for OpenSCAD

Recently, I came across the software OpenSCAD. It is a CAD program aimed at programmers. The software runs on Windows, Mac, and Linux/Unix.

In OpenSCAD, you use a functional programming language to define the model. The functional language can be created in any number of text editors or IDEs then rendered. This allows me to use my favorite editor and to store the files in a source control.

Resources for Leaning about OpenSCAD.

• Websites
• OpenSCAD
• OpenSCAD User Manual/The OpenSCAD Language
• SPO Learning - OpenSCAD
• OpenScad beginners tutorial
• YouTube Channels
• Paul Randall
• Open-SCAD DIY3DTecg
• David Dobervich

After spending a few hours reading, watching YouTube, and playing around, I have come to like OpenSCAD. It is rather straight-forward way to create a 3D model for printing. I really like being able to create complex objects by combining simple objects together. 

Setting up OctoPrint

I am setting up OctoPrint to give me more flexibility in monitoring and to free up a computer from being connected to the 3D Printer.

High Level Steps

1. Get the OctoPi image
2. Burn the image to an SD card. I am using Linux (Ubuntu) to burn the image.
3. Configure the Raspberry Pi
4. Test
5. Move the equipment to the same location as the printer.

Detailed Steps

1. Download the latest version of OctoPi
2. Plug in your favorite Memory Card Reader
3. Plug in your SD Card into the Memory Card Reader
4. Open the Disks app
5. Find your SD Card. The device is '/dev/sdd1' on my machine. Save the device info for a later step.
6. In a terminal issue the following command: sudo dd if={location of image} od={destination} bs=4M
• More Info: Installing operating system images on Linux
7. I entered: sudo dd if=~/Downloads/2016-03-18-octopi-jessie-lite-0.13.0.img of=/dev/sdd bs=4M  
• Warnings and notes about dd command
• You need to run the command as superuser or use sudo
• The dd command does not display any feedback while it is running. You need to wait for the command prompt to return
• If the write fails try using 1M for the bs parameter.
• The uppercase M in the bs parameter is important.
8. Eject the SD card
9. Put the SD Card into the Raspberry Pi.
10. Plug in the Network Cable
11. Apply power
12. Wait for the Raspberry Pi to boot.
13. In the terminal ssh to the Pi using the command:  ssh pi@octopi.local
14. You will be prompted that the authenticity of the host can't be established and will need to accept the fingerprint. The default user for OctoPrint is 'pi' and the default password is 'raspberry'.
15. Change the password of the pi to something that is secure and you can remember. Changing the password is done using the command:  passwd  
16. Configure the Raspberry PI by issuing the command:  sudo raspi-config
17. You will want to expand the filesystem, exit and reboot the Raspberry Pi.
18. Once the Pi has finished rebooting, you can use the URL http://octopi.local. This may take a minute or two for page to display.
19. You will be prompted to enter user name and password.
20. Once the site appears, log in with the user name and password from the previous step.
21. If prompted to update OctoPrint, perform the update. This will take a few minutes. When the update is complete you will be asked to reload the user interface. The update and reload took about 10 minutes for me.
22. You will be prompted to set up a slicing profile. If you are already a Cura user you can import the profile. I updated my current Cura profile.

You should now have a basic setup for OctoPrint.

Plug your 3D Printer's USB cable into the printer and the Raspberry Pi then test if you can connect. In my case, I couldn't connect using 'Auto' for the Serial Port and Buadrate. I was able to connect once I manually set the values.

Testing that the Web Cam works by going to Settings -> Webcam & Timelapse. I clicked the test button, a dialog box pops up. I don't see the stream. To fix the issue, I used ssh to connect to the Pi, issued 'sudo nano /boot/octopi.txt', changed the camera usb options line to read 'camera_usb_options="-r VGA", saved the file, and rebooted the Pi.

Update 25 March 2017

I got some hardware to add to my OctoPi build out. The first item is 2.8 TFT with Touchscreen from adafruit. I followed the instructions for the Easy Install.

Note: in the scripts folder on the Raspberry Pi that is script named 'enable-adafruit-pitft' that did not work for me. It appears that script tries to install older libraries for the display.

It took some work to get OctoPiPanel running. My first attempt was to use the script included with OctoPi. This did not work for me. I was getting an error about pygame not being installed. What did work was using the instructions from the OctoPiPanel github page.

The second piece of hardware is a Raspberry Pi Camera Module Board. To get the module to work, I modified the file '/boot/octopi.txt', I just removed the # from the line camera_raspi_options="-fps 10"

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